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July
Garden Calendar
By
John Chapman
Heat
problems:
If there is some good to come from the intense summer
hear, it is an opportunity to solarize gardening plots,
especially vegetables plots. This technique was developed
in Israel. The recommended method for doing this is
as follows: Water the area to be solarized deeply and
slowly, then cover with clear plastic, anchoring the
edges to contain the moisture. Don't use black plastic,
as it will keep weeds from sprouting, which is what
you want them to do and then get cooked. Let the whole
thing stew for four weeks. The heat beneath the plastic
will be intense, upward 140-150 degrees, cooking many
of your gardening problems and weed seeds. Don't worry
about earthworms; as the soil heats up, they dig themselves
deeper or leave the area while the thermostat is turned
up. The heat from this process will help destroy nematodes
as they cannot tolerate the heat nor move fast enough
to escape. After about four weeks, remove the clear
plastic, rototill or spade from 8 to 12 inches, water
deeply and put the plastic back on the let cook for
another four weeks. If we had tilled the soil the first
time, we would have buried the weed seeds deeply, only
to have them haunt us later when we tilled. This procedure
kills the weed seeds on and near the surface. This whole
procedure takes about eight weeks and puts us into September,
just perfect for all fall gardens. Tomatoes and citrus
may start splitting. High heat is the cause.
Flowers: Nurseries still have summer flowers
for that instant garden look, but you will have to water
them every day in the morning for about two weeks before
you can reduce watering to every other day. Hot as it
may be, this is a good time to plant most desert shrubs
and trees such as Mexican bird of paradise, fairy duster,
texas ranger and salt bush. Palms may be planted this
month. Shrubs and vines such as bougainvillea and queen's
wreath also may be planted, and these do well in the
sun and heat. Be sure to water all new planting for
at least two weeks before you cut back. Bougainvillea
will produce more blooms if you reduce the water. They
are drought-tolerant. Less water, more blooms.
Trees and Shrubs: Water deeply about every two
weeks for mature trees, every week for younger ones.
Citrus will be dropping little fruits. Its natural and
normal for citrus to thin themselves of excess fruit
the tree cannot support. Watering weekly under the outer
two-thirds of the canopy and beyond so that the soil
will be wet down to as least two feet.
With regard to watering, think long, slow and deep.
To be specific, Terry Mikel, Maricopa county Extension
agent, suggests checking the soil surface in the morning.
If the soil is dry down to one inch deep in small annuals
and vegetables, water your flowers. If the soil is dry
down to two inches water your shrubs. When it is dry
down to three inches, water your trees. Long, deep watering
for a couple of hours once a month should be sufficient
for established native or desert shrubs and trees. The
water should be applied under the entire spread of the
plant. Basins under trees should be expanded periodically
as the canopy spreads because roots will extend out
as far as the canopy, and that is where uptake roots
are located. Don't prune live growth now, even the slightest
pruning will expose previously shaded bark to sunburn.
Most of us know by experience what happens when our
skin that has been shielded by clothing is suddenly
exposed to the ultra violet rays without gradually being
able to acclimate to sunlight. Now is the time to fertilize
palms with palm tree food.
Lawns: If you have considered installing a Bermuda
lawn, now is the perfect time to do it when Bermuda
is growing at it's best. It you are considering killing
a Bermuda grass now is the perfect time to do that also.
Roundup is the herbicide of choice, just be sure to
add a spreader sticker or surfactant to the Roundup
so the herbicide will stay on the leaf surface. Water
about every three days for about 30-40 minutes. Apply
fertilizer for a rich green carpet. Your may use ammonium
sulfate 21-0-0, urea 45-0-0 or a complete lawn food
of various formulations. The fertilizer release from
each is different. Some are quicker acting than others,
and the potency is different. So read and follow label
instructions or ask your nurseryman. Ironite is a good
supplement for strong roots and deep green color.
Vegetables: Shade screen over tomatoes, squash,
peppers and cucumbers will reduce the heat and help
them survive a little longer. Mulch on top of the soil
will also cool it and help retain moisture. Tomato pollen
is cooked when temperature exceed 95 degrees so forget
about getting any more tomatoes now; cover with 50 %
sunscreen to help them survive until September and October
then you can have some fall tomatoes.
If you want winter squash (acorn, hubbard), sweet corn
or pumpkin, plant in July. If you are going to plant
these vegetables, you'll have to forgo solarizing that
part of your garden.
Fall pumpkins and jack-o-lanterns, plant first week
of July: If you want pumpkins for jack-o-lanterns or
pie, try such varieties as Connecticut field or Jack
-o-lantern. If you wish to try and make a real show
with pumpkins, try Big Max or Atlantic Giant. With proper
care, these can reach enormous proportions, up to 600
pounds. For you heat lovers, you can still plant summer
and zuchini squash, and melons.
Roses: Fertilize at half rate every six weeks
during the summer. Top dress fertilizer and lightly
scratch into soil. Do not forget to water deeply both
before and after fertilizing, very important steps to
prevent fertilizer burn damage. Roses and other plants
still need to be fed during the summer so that they
will be healthy enough to start growing again when the
weather becomes more hospitable. By reducing the amount
of fertilizer, we do not risk stimulating excessive
new growth that would burn even more easily. It is important
during this time to remove spent blooms on a regular
basis. Experience has shown that leaving the rose blooms
on the bush resulted in the bushes becoming so dormant
that they did not do as well in the fall. The roses
will also think it is time to start making hips seeds
causing energy to be spent there instead of in foliage
production. Deadheading conservatively, cutting at a
shorter distance down the cane and leaving as many leaves
as possible, resulted in healthier plants for two reasons;
first, more leaves were present to provide more protection
of the canes from the sun, second, there are more leaves
providing nutrition to the plant.
____________________________________________________________________
If
you have a specific question for John please leave them
on his voice mail 480-898-5636 or email him at john@johnchapman.com
. Please leave your question, name, city, and phone
number. For more of John Chapman’s gardening tips
listen to news radio 620am KTAR Saturday morning 7:40-8AM.
On Television watch John’s garden segments on Jan
D’Atri’s Heart and Home on Sunday 12:30pm
and replays Monday evenings 8 pm AZTV broadcast 27,
Cable America 4, or Cox 13
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